Piovano in China

Steamship Services of the Nippon Yusen Kaisha

2008-04-14T00:38:00.000+08:00

The Company maintains two lines between Kobe and North China: Kobe -Corea-North China Lines and Kobe North China Lines. The first class saloons are situated on the Promedade Deck amidships and are spacious, well ventiled and fitted with every modern convenience The suites are composed of a bedroom, sitting room and bath. The sitting rooms contain three berths and have a large wash stand. The bedrooms have double brass beds. the bathrooms have solid porcelain tub, wash stands and toilet. Each stateroom of both first and second-class has an electric fan and each berth has an electric lamp.
It's delightful life aboard ship. Early morning coffee and fruit served in your cabin. The dining saloons are on the Upper Deck. An excellent table in European style is kept. After dinner comes the concert or the dance.
The dining sallons, library, writing, smokings roos contain rich and wonderful Japanese tapestries, furniture of mahogany, teakwood, walnut and maple; artistic mural decorations and decorated wood panels.
The upper bridge deck with the exception of the capitais's cabin and the smoking room is devoted to promenading purpouses. A Surgeon will attend gratis to passangers in case of illness. Washermen are always at passengers' service. A complete laundry does an excellent work.
Nippon Yusen Kaisha or Japan Mail Steamship Company has 76 vessels and its Head Office in Tokio. Other branches in Kobe and Osaka. Agencies in all the principal ports of the World.

A horse called Falstaff

2006-08-18T17:20:00.000+08:00

When I was in Peking I had a horse called Falstaff.

He was a superb Arabian horse. An elegant black stallion with a little white star on his forehead. I purchased him 31 agosto 1901 for 52 Lire. A little investmnt for me. The Arabian black horses are very rare and Falstaff was very aware of his importance and oneness. He was an horse with a strong personality and really stubborn many times. In the hippodrome of the Italian Barrack of Huang Tsun was possible make obstacles courses and competitions and his agility gave me an enormous advantage on jumper courses with obstacles that requiring a great power. In China was very difficult find a good horse. Yes, there were several horses market but chinese horses were very strong but ugly, stumpy, used for works perhaps Mongolian horses are a little better. Mongolian horses have great working ability and a great physical resistance . Less elegant than Arabian horses, but very clever. Falstaff had accompanied me in several trips and I did him several photos. He was very happy to make me happy. A very good friend.

Public Hall Yokohama

2006-08-17T16:23:00.000+08:00

A grand Evening Concert

2006-08-17T15:54:00.000+08:00

The Japan Times
Saturday, Mai 9 , 1903

A grand Evening Concert will be given on Monday the 18 th May at the Public Hall by Miss Olga Kroostcheff, pianist. Gold Medal, Vienna Conservatoires. Assisted by local Amateurs.
Reserve Seats .....Three Yen
Admission ..........Two Yen
Plan of Hall may be seen and Seats booked at Mr C. Thwaites &Co, 61 , Main Street.
Yokohama, May, 9 th , 1903

Fathers among the ruins of Taiyuanfu

2006-08-16T22:24:00.000+08:00

Ruins at Taiyuanfu

2006-08-16T21:46:00.000+08:00

When we arrived to Taiyuanfu we found only ruins and we wandered with the Fathers between the rubbles of the houses set fire and destroyed . I photographed the rests of the Seminar,of the Mission, of the houses of father Francesco Fogola and Monsignor Gregorio Grassi. Between the rubbles of the destroyed houses were recovered dead body and objects of common use. Nothing of more sad I have never seen in all my life.

July 9, when we were still for sea, Yu-Hsien chinese viceroy of Province of Shansi ordered the execution after a summary process of the two pour bishops with three missionaries and seven Franciscans nuns of the order of the Serves of Maria, five seminarists and 9 serves of the mission. Were killed with them also European Protestants shepherds with their families. I admite that several news that the journals reporte are false or exagerated but it's very sad see with own eyes all these cruelties. I dont'know why kill women , children and old priests, it is not only cruel is useless.

The Summer Palace

2006-08-15T04:31:00.000+08:00

Fireworks on the Kunming's lake

2006-08-15T03:27:00.000+08:00

Le general Voyron

Commandant en Chef le corps exp-re français

et le Ministre de France

vous prient de vouloir bien honorer de votre

presence la fete venitienne suivie d'une fete de

nuit qu'ils donneront Samedì 11 Mai 1901 a 9 h 1/2

du soir a la Rotonde ( Lac Imperial)

The general Emile Voyron with his wife Marie and the Minister of France Stephan Pichon have set up a Venetian Party follows from a banquet by night to the Rotonde on the Imperial Lake . A venetian masquerade on the Summer Palace at the end of spring. A party near the water by night in a wonderful park not far from the dusty and frantic Peking, an oasis of calm of which the three qurtes have occupied from the artificial lake Kunming. Try to imagine hundreds and hundreds of little paper lanterns that shine in the night, the orchestra in the gazebo, music, dances, cosmopolitan environment, all the pavillions decorated with guirlandes, flowers and red lanterns and champagne all night long.

Then a midnight we could admire the magnificence of the fireworks on the lake. The dark surface of water will glimmer in its thousend lights and dazling reflexes . A fairyland of lights, a choreographic show of lights and sounds like only the French know how to do.

Yes, this is my hard life in China, today. Well I'll try to enjoy myself and I'll think to you.

Smoking Room

2006-08-12T16:00:00.000+08:00

Interior of the Mitsui Gofuku-ten

2006-08-10T16:31:00.000+08:00

The Mitsui Gofukuten

2006-08-10T15:59:00.000+08:00

The public is cordailly invited

to come and inspect

Our splendid display of dry goods

rich colours and artistic designs

The Mitsui Gofuku-ten

For over 200 years our store has been known as more reliable, more progressive, and more reasonamle in price than any other similar store in Japan.

We have in our stock a full and complete line of silk and cotton goods, including Crapes, Velvets, embroideries, Handekerchiefs, and Kimmons, and also materials for ladies foreign dresses.

As we have special contracts with the best known weaving establishments in this county and we have the best designers and workmen in our employment, we are able to give satisfaction to the most fastidious customer.

All mail orders will receive our prompt and careful attention; and goods will be forwarded to any part of the wolrd.

Our show Rooms are open daily from 8.30 AM till 5.00 PM.

The main store is Suruga-cho. Tokyo, branch Koraibashi, Osaka.

Dining Room

2006-08-10T15:36:00.000+08:00

Tategami Maru Menu

2006-08-10T14:45:00.000+08:00

Nippon Yusen Kaisha
24 April 1903

Soup: Custered soup
Fish: Boiled fish with Eggs Souce
Entrees: Milan Cultlet with Mash Potatos
Roll Beef with Peas
Boiled: York Boiled
Corned Beef with Carzal
Roast: Beef with Horseradish Souce
Turkey with Cranberry Souce
Curry Veal Currey and Rice
Vegetables: Boiled potatos
Salt of Onion
Pastry Bread
Pudding
Gateau a la Cream

Fruit
Dessert
Water
Wine
Tea & Cofee

Kanaya Hotel at Nikko

2006-08-08T22:44:00.000+08:00

Nikko, Japan the best place in the world!

2006-08-08T21:33:00.000+08:00

Japan is for me a land of wonder! Nikko is a double wonder. It is easily reached in 5 hours from Tokyo by Northen Railway changing cars at Utsunomiya. Mountains, cascades, monumental forest trees, had always stood here. Nikko is a delightful resort, lying 2000 feet above the sea. The hotel in which I spent sevaral days is the Kanaya Hotel, situated in the head of the town of Nikko. From my windows I could see the great mountain of Nantai-zan and the beutiful river Daiya-gawa. The cusine was excellent, the dinning room had a wood ceiling and windows open on the garden. Then there was a big verandah in whic you could admire the garden under the rain.The principal short walks from the hotel were the Sacred Bridge, that is always closed to all perso except the Imperial family, the Temple of Ieyasu, where visitors should remove their boots at the entrace. Lake Chuenji led at the foot of Nantai-zan, being surrounded on the other sides by low hills cobvered with trees to their summit. A japanese proverb says " Don't use the word "Magnificent" till you have seen Nikko". Well like all proverbs is true.

The murder of Umberto I

2006-08-08T04:47:00.000+08:00

Umberto I King of Italy is dead!

2006-08-08T04:33:00.000+08:00

29 july 1900

Beloved brother,
The worse new that an Italian abroad could receive perhaps you’ll have by me.
The terrible new of the murder of the good and beloved our King.
You that probably are one of the last persons who saw him alive! You that talked with him! When he wished to you an happy return at home. That awful new my poor Luigi, that pain like to all us. It’s unbelievable a so terrifying murder. The worse murder of the century like has said our heartbroken Queen. Instead is all true! Painful truth, and all we can do is cry and blame. The demonstrations of pain of all the Italians were immense like the love toward Savoy House and our new King Vittorio Emanuele II. Chieri was not inferior to anyone. May God bless Italy!!
Best regrets,
Your brother Michele

Osaka's Aquarium

2006-08-08T01:30:00.000+08:00

Souvenir of Osaka

2006-08-08T00:39:00.000+08:00

When I went to Osaka, I visited the 5th National Industrial Exposition. A very interesting place. Full of crazy and strange things. Osaka was the centre of the commerce and industry of the Empire and here in the 1903 all the provinces of the Japan held a great exhibition to display the best products of all their industries. All the strangers were received kindly and friendly and I think that Osaka is the wealthiest city of all the country. Industry, Commerce, Agriculture and Arts are very considered. The recent development of this country is unbeliveble! There is eletric light everywhere, and the modern progress has for the Japaneses an ethical value. The Land of the Rising Sun is really a land of prosperity and enchanting things. And this Exposition was a shining example of all this. His Royal Highness Prince Kotohito, better known as Kan-in-no-miya, had the honorary office of President and that give the signe of the importance of this happening. A great Aquarium is included in the Grat Exhibition and in the garden all around it there were so many pleasant pavillions, used as tea houses,in which I could admire the nature around me, the cherry, maple, pine and other trees. It was really wonderful!

The Wedding dinner of Gustav Detring's daugther will be held in the Astor Hotel

2006-08-04T20:00:00.000+08:00

The Lucy Detring's marriage

2006-08-04T15:46:00.000+08:00

14 Decembre 1901 - Tientsin.

Gustav Detring and Madame Detring announce the engagement of their daughter, Lucy Detring, to the Marquis Salvatore Denti di Pirayno, lieutenant of the Italian Royal Marine. He is the son of the Marquise Rosalia Denti di Pirayno, born Countess Amari of Sant Adriano from La spezia. Decembre 14 wedding is planned at Saint Luis Church in Tientsin.

A winter marriage!
The most important social happening of all north China in 1901 .

All Tientsin jourmals are full of articles about this marriage and I'm a guest. The wedding invitation written in french says: "Monsieur et Madame Detring neé Bauer ont l'honour de vous faire part du mariage de leur fille Lucy avec le Marquis Denti di Pirayno, et vous prient d'assister a la benediction nuptiale qui aura bien a l'eglise de St Luois le 14 decembre a trois heures de l'apres midi. Tientsin 1901."
Lucy is very gracious and lives like a princess, I'm not surprise that she marries a Count. An italian count is more strange! However the secrets plans of her father are misterious even for Chineses!

Gustav Detring is a really Tycoon, the most reach man of all Asia, I think.

Will be all Tientsin.

A profusion of flowers, Ladies full of jewels, men in uniform, nobles, diplomatics with their families, the most important chinese authorities, and me, the poor Luigi.

Well, I'll be in a very good company!!

Then Madame Detring sends me even her personal visit card in which there is written that she receives guests " apres midi de 5 a 7 heures".. I dont' know what gift give her!! She owns everything!

Well, perhaps my precence will be sufficient!!

Regulations for the visitors to the Imperial Palaces

2006-08-03T14:43:00.000+08:00

A spring in Japan!

2006-08-03T14:42:00.000+08:00

In the spring of 1903 I get a license of a month that agreed me between April and May of visiting the Japan and the Korea. April 17 I left from Taku on board of the steamboat "Tategami Maru" a ship from transportation of 2703 tons of the Company of Navigation "Mitsubishi Kaisho" that followed the route Newchwang- Kobe and I arrived in Japan 23 April, 6 next day. I visited numerous town, traveling with boats and using the railroad. The spring was surely the better season to visit the Japan for the foreigners that were able to admire besides the palaces and the historical monuments also the cherry trees in flower that in the month of April reached the greatest flowering. It is wonderful the profusion of flowers that grew in that country and I'm a farmer .....
Every year l' europeization of the Japan was more obvious and it is seen it from the architectural style of the residences, from the railroad net, from the spread of the electric systems. During this period I should write a relation about Japan and undertand what was happening. Japanese and Russians were querreling too much and a new war was in the air!!
But I tried however to be a turist even I should sign the counsular register in every city in which I was. Even I should be always reperible!!! Like a doctor!! Strange holidays !!!
During my visit in Japan I met Maru my japanese wife, the most beutiful girl that I ever seen in all my life! My return to Taku was expected for may 28 and Maru cames back with me in China in another boat.

Mc Rae chinese message!!

2006-08-02T23:20:00.000+08:00

Have a cup of tea Mc Rae!

2006-08-02T23:00:00.000+08:00

My very best friend is M.H.St.G.M.Mc Rae of the 14 th Sikhs, Mooltan Punjab, India, who I met in Shanhaikwan in the international Club.
He is a man very amusing and now he's learning not italian language but the sicilian. Yes, in his last letter he wrote me "Statuo bono piciotto, A Rivederci". This is a shinig example of his british humor!!
Mac was in the British Contingent China Expedition Force and now he's returned in India but he continued to send me letters and strange message. I hope one day of going in Britain to visit his country. He playes at polo, speaks to his horse, and he is very smart and clever.
Good boy, good example af a gentleman.

Gordon Hall Tientsin

2006-08-02T21:57:00.000+08:00

Vocal Recital of Miss Winifred Currey

2006-08-02T21:26:00.000+08:00

Saturday, February 6th , at 9,15 pm at the Gordon Hall of Tientsin will be a vocal recital of Miss Winifred Currey assisted by local amateurs!
I'have received just now the program of the recital on a very nice pergamene paper with yellow flowers. All the social life of Tientsin came around Mrs Detring anf for her have Miss Currey for a recital is a great succes and for me is the occasion of doing a little of society's life!!
Well Winifred is not a graet singer, but a Tientsin is the girl of the day! The program is amusing and the Gordon Hall by night is very...suggestive. I' dont like very much lirical music and many friend of mine are usual sleeping during this song's performance, but this is the nocturnal life in our Concession.
Mrs Detring, the wife of the most important not chinese in China, and Madame de Tretiakoff, a russian lady with a past, have kindly consented to accompany Mr Cockell and Miss Currey in their songs. Piece strong of the recital is the Ave Maria of Raff put strategically in the middle of the concert. Then Winifred will close the evening with Chansone de Route of Puget, Songs my mother thaught me of Dvorak and dulcis in fundo Pertout of Chaminade.
Well, the winter is cold here in the north of the China, but during Mrs Detring's evenings, born Bauer, served always good whiskey.

My Ilford plates!!

2006-07-31T16:48:00.000+08:00

All my reign for an Ilford glass plate!!

2006-07-31T15:55:00.000+08:00

My device Goertz and my Ilfords glass plates with my maps are the more important things that I own!!

Find new Ilford glass plates many time it is a very adventure. Are more precious than gold !! Like all photographers I have my fornitors that find plates in the port of Hong Kong and Canton than in a misterious way those plates arrive at Tienstin and so I could get them.

I have a chinese fornitor very clever and a good friend but he know how much I need of those plates and took ever a patrimony with his smiles.

However, the major problem is that those plates in glass are more fragile. Preservation of photos in many cases is very difficult. Poor Luigi!! Than find silver. I spend all my time with acids and dark camera..but the result is good!! I hope...

Pyramids of apples !!

2006-07-31T01:06:00.000+08:00

When I met Tzu-hsi

2006-07-30T17:56:00.000+08:00

In the 1902 Tzu-hsi returned to Peking with her court and for my fortune, or unfortune, I had the strange honour of meeting her. Tzu-hsi, the Current Holy Mother Empress Dowager Cixi Duanyou Kangyi Zhaoyu Zhuangcheng Shougong Qinxian Chongxi of the Empire of the Great Qing, the only "real man" of all the Empire like the germans called her.

Yes, I met this woman , I took some pictures and I visited the Forbidden City. I was not the only stranger that did it, but I was the only that see her like an human being and not like a God or an Empress.

She was an old woman gentle and curious , who studied English, had a great simpathy for Queen Victoria and was very...greedy. Yes like all the old women she had strange tastes !! In front of her Palace in the Forbidden City there were not flowers or trees, like in all the gardens, but a pyramid of....apples.

Set them in a very agreable way, indeed, but the effect was very singular. Several shining apples in front of me. This made me smile but it is not educated and polaite smile in front of an Empress!! I picked me to remain serious!! Tray to imagine it.

Then an educated and serious chinese ministre made me note that apples are an anthidot for poisons and...I smiled less.. This woman was really full of surprises and there was ever a reason in all that she did.

Here a richshaw !!

2006-07-29T15:38:00.000+08:00

From the Italy to the China on the steamboat Java 1900

2006-07-28T17:39:00.000+08:00

The evening of july 19 1900 I embarked myself on board of the steamboat Java of the Italian Navigation that followed the line of Suez and that had to carry me in China.
The China!!
Already alone this word evoked in me an exotic and mysterious world, a fantastic country in the most distant East. I was very young and full of enthusiasm, still shaken from news that came from those distant lands of missions burnt, west people deceased, women and children besieged in the diplomatic Legations of Beijing.
Already, but what I'll have found in reality?

Me, poor boy of the peaceful Piedmontese lands, of the sweet hills of the Langhe, of the vintages, of the "Freisa"?
I did not know . The mysterious and terrible China what was in reality? What dangers, mysteries, opportunity represented for me?
A mixed of curiosity and fear put me in a weird state of mind. I was directed in China with my books, my maps for the more drawn bu me and took bythe cards of the Geographic Society, my Goertz, my precious slabs of glass "Ilford", and who knows how I would have done to find of news or to find the silver to develop them made the photographs.
I was perhaps sad having close in the memory the shouting of the my parents and friends and the recommendations of my brother Michele, of making always to boil the water before drinking, of being always in guard, of not giving me to the drunkenness and of avoiding brawls and discords.
Dear, good so serious Michele with his grey and his now grey beard, I seem to see him read all of the days the newspaper in search of news of mine, drinking the coffee with his napkin in lap, he veterinarian appreciated and considered in the countries near Chieri. Then to visit the friends in the restaurant of Angelo, so proud of the "Bottiglieria" that has just open and to discuss of my journey with everyone those who know of my journey like if the China was a little country only more distant of Buttigliera or Asti. Serious and calm, perfectly owner of hiself, with his grey and calm eyes, but unyielding and insisted many times.
Poor Ministry when will be found bombarded from his telegrams to know how I am and what I do, when I return, all things that he does not dare to ask me directly in the letters.
That strange things you finish to do in name of the affection and of the responsibility that tie up the greater brothers towards the minor....
While appeared on the bridge of the steamboat I observed the profile of the costs of Naples to remove itself, besides the nostalgia, I warned really that I was in the beginning of a great adventure that would have changed all my life.
I was directed towards a land that, in the well and in the bad, with its ancient civility governed in Asia from immemorial times. Land for the most unknown, visited by the west voyagers very few times, land full of new itineraries to trace.
Above of me the stars glistened quiet, distant like the China, and to the same indecipherable manner, and coiled me of a weird one. ..solitude!!
I could returne at home? I would have reviewed my brothers, my mother, the friends, "Barba" (Uncle) Angelo. I did not know it. I was able to stay in China months and instead I stayed here five years.
Five long years in which I saw things that with difficult I could be believed if I told them.
But I have my photographs that document that it is all truth!!
The following relation is the story of my journey and of my adventures during these five years in China!!

For my beloved daughter Anna, my grandchilds Eugenio and Laurel, that plays always between the "papaveri da oppium" of the garden and make frighten my poor wife Giorgina.

I will omit something, I'm so sorry, but I am old, and is inevitable when the time separates us from the memories, to forget but for how much I will do will be very difficult than you do not understand how much loved the China and the people that met here above all my japanese wife that I did not be able to restore in Italy with me. In some manner I will carry all always inside of me wherever find myself and for how much time it is me still granted to live.

This man is an artisan that repairs dishes !! Really strange!!

2006-07-28T17:16:00.000+08:00

Letter to his mother

2006-07-28T17:12:00.000+08:00

From boat "Giava"

To three days from Hong Kong

17 August 1900

Dear beloved mother,

from Singapore I wrote you a letter that I'll send you between three days from Hong Kong.

How many new things I saw in the attractive Singapore!

For the first time I saw the chineses with their pigtails. They are really ugly, but then not even a lot, large, big and good. They work a lot, they are quiet and curious for nothing. It is understood, however, because their town is so large and attended from trvallers from all of the world. But one of the things more news and unusual that I see is the horse-men. Instead of tranvai and public cars there are much small drivers and to read to one or to two places that call them "risciò" pulled from a man, and with only 50 cent you could go wherever you want.

And you should see how they run!

They resist for an incredible time and their force is unbeliveble .

The large and right roads are full of these small cars. Like our carsthey are numbered and I saw of it with the number 10.000!!

The Chineses do all of the occupations, have shops like us, and work pretty well and they are honest.

I saw too a chinese procession seemed of being in the middle of Carnival with the masquerade people on foot on horseback, above oxen, that sang and played, carried banners with weird written.

Really the more weird thing than I have ever seen.

There are many attractive palaces and English shops a lot richer of the ours.

Singapore is an island surrounded for other small islands covered from vegetation very warm and damp. They are so much fruits and much vegetables !

How I see that all of the world is country but always own country is the better!

Between three days I hope to arrive to Hong Kong an English town, however, but the first really Chinese one. Between 10 days I hope to be in place.

I embrace you.

Your Luigi.